4. Lathes suitable for amateurs

Price range and adaptability - Advantages of various types

TODAY we can see at various exhibitions and stores a real galaxy of machine tools, originating from almost the four corners of the world. To cover all amateur lathes made would be quite an impossible task, and I shall only deal with some of those of American and British origin. They will probably be within a price range of $35 to $100. Probably one of the most popular types of lathe is that driven by a small, portable electric drill. Here we have a machine which is entirely portable and quite capable of turning out some very good work. Of course, we must not expect to be able to turn out 10 in. salad bowls or similar large dimension projects, but we can make anything up to 6 in. in diameter and 24 in. between centres. Articles of this size are well within the range of these versatile machines. Several people I know make a very handsome additional income turning stool legs, egg cups, cruets, etc. on this type of lathe. The price range, excluding electric drill, will be between $20 to $30. For your money, you will get faceplate, centres and tool rest. Other accessories, such as boring tools, woodscrew centres, etc., will be extra. The electric drill can be bought for between $15 to $30, and will have a speed of anything from 2,800 r.p.m. to 3,600 r.p.m. This, as I have already mentioned, is quite a suitable speed for the nature of the work undertaken. Most tool shops and hardware stores stock this type of lathe, and demonstra­tions can usually be arranged.

One big advantage of this type of tool, is that the power unit, which is the drill, can easily be taken off, and used for other jobs, away from the bench, such as drilling, sanding and polishing, or made to drive small circular saws and other attachments, of which there are many. For the man with limited means, this is quite a good buy.

In all these drill-powered lathes, the work is turned directly by the drill itself, the various centres and chucks being held by the drill. One very interesting drill-powered lathe is that manufactured by Millers Falls Company, Greenfield, Massachusetts.

In this unit, we have a normal type of lathe with 30 in. between centres and having mandrel and tailstock bored to take centres having a No. 1 Morse taper shank. The drill is mounted separately on a platform behind and attached to the lathe, the drive being by means of a V-belt and single pulley on the drill to a four-step pulley on the lathe. Variation of speed is obtained by sliding the power unit sideways, on the special platform, to line up the single pulley with whichever one of the four steps of the headstock pulley is desired. For other work, away from the lathe, the drill can be quickly detached, or on the other hand, a normal 1/2h.p. electric motor can be fitted and will give the lathe more flexibility and power. Turning speeds obtainable using the electric drill as the power unit, range from 1,400 r.p.m. to 2,500 r.p.m. and with an electric motor from 900 r.p.m. to 3,200 r.p.m.

Above $30 and under $80, we come to the larger more robust lathes, which are driven by a separate electric motor, by means of belt and graded pulley. These, too, can usually be used to perform other jobs besides wood-turning, by the addition of simple attachments. These lathes usually have fully adjustable tailstocks with a self-ejecting device for easy removal of centres and headstocks, with hollow mandrel for easy removal of driving centres. Large diameter turning can be undertaken on the left-hand side of the mandrel, or as in lathes manufactured by various American companies, the whole of the headstock can be rotated so that large turning is done on the right-hand side of the lathe and at right angles to the bed. The motor, being fitted to the headstock, rotates at the same time. This gives a great saving in floor space. Although these lathes are port­able, they are really meant to be bolted securely to a bench. Distance between centres is usually 30 in. and distance between centres and bed 31/2 in. to 41/2 in. This allows for quite a large variety of work to be undertaken.

I have used a lathe of this type for many years and have been most satisfied, whether turning such articles as small drawer knobs or large refectory table legs. A distance between centres of 30 in., enables table legs to be easily turned or tall floor standards, which are made up of two 30 in. lengths of timber. Another feature is the way the centres are held. These are made with a No. 1 or No. 2 Morse taper, which is a standard lathe fitment and are just a push fit in the mandrel or tailstock, which allows for the easy removal I have already mentioned.

The bed of such lathes may be of various section, some round, some flat, but whatever shape, it is essential that it is strong and rigid, with no tendency to distort when in use. I have a preference for the round type of bed, as it is easy to keep clean and there are no ways or grooves to become blocked up, but that does not mean to say that other types are no good. It is just a matter of personal preference.

For this type of lathe, I would recommend an electric motor giving approximately 1,425 r.p.m. and not under 1/2h.p. This motor, fitted with a three- or four-step pulley, will give all the speed range you require and will enable anything up to 12 in. or more to be turned. If you have less power than this, you will find that when turning large bowls, it is quite an easy matter to stop the lathe and this can be quite annoying. Furthermore, it is very difficult to cut the wood cleanly if the lathe slows down as soon as you touch the work with your gouge or chisel. On the other hand, if you have too much power, then most of the time you are just wasting it, so you might as well save your money.

Some manufacturers of lathes between $30 and $80 are Coronet Tool Co., Derby: Myford Engineering Co., Beeston, Notts: Rockwell Manufacturing Co., Pittsburgh, Pennsyl­vania, U.S.A.

Now that you have some idea of the price of various lathes and their characteristics, please do not have a sudden rush of blood and hot foot it to the nearest tool shop and place your order. Weigh up the advantages and disadvantages of the different types and decide how best they will fit your needs. I should always recommend, if possible, that you visit an exhibition where these various tools are being demonstrated. Lots of valuable information can be obtained by watching other craftsmen at work. Whilst dealing with buying your lathe, please do not be like one person I know of. He saw a turner working at some exhibition or other and thought that he would also like to take up woodturning, so at the first opportunity, he ordered a complete woodworking machine, a combination lathe costing about $600 in all The whole of this lovely machine was duly set up in a workshop and a host of assorted tools and attachments arranged along the wall. A truly magnificent set up. Alas, when this certain gentleman switched on the machine, he was scared stiff to use it. In fact, he had never handled a tool of any sort in his life before. It had all looked so simple and easy when he had watched an expert at work. Today this machine is packed away in several boxes, having never been used. You may wonder why I tell you this. I just hope it will show that even if you do have the money to buy an expensive machine, you must make sure you have some knowledge of the .tools and machinery. It is just as important that you have a definite interest in the craft, or otherwise you will be bitterly dis­appointed. It is much better to start a hobby in a more modest way and also much more rewarding.

Many of the lathes manufactured today are actually combination tools where turning is only one of the many operations which can be performed. There is a lot to be said for this kind of equipment where space is a deciding factor, but beware of some types of tool where you spend more time changing from one attachment to another than actually performing the job in hand. Many articles turned on the lathe depend on other operations, such as drilling, sanding or sawing before the job can be completed, and to have one tool in your workshop which will perform all of these opera­tions, is certainly a big advantage. I can well remember when I Was using my first homemade lathe, it used to take me longer to prepare the wood than to do the actual turn­ing. Take it from me, it was not long before I had a very crude circular saw working as well.

Are You Ready To Move Onto The Next Lesson? Click Here...